The peninsula between the Potomac and Rappahannock rivers known as the Northern Neck stretches 100 miles southeast from Fredericksburg to the Chesapeake Bay. A popular weekend getaway for us residents of nearby metropolitan areas, this rural land of rolling hills serrated by quiet tidal creeks is the ancestral home of the Carters, the Washingtons, and the Lees, who created large plantations on the riverbanks. Its hills are still punctuated by agricultural and small fishing villages (they speak in terms of counties here, not towns).
Locals seem to think that the Northern Neck has three areas of interest. Heading east from Fredericksburg on Va. 3, you first come to George Washington’s Birthplace National Monument, where the first president was born in 1732 on Pope’s Creek Plantation, and Stratford Hall, the magnificently restored Lee plantation. Nearby, the Ingleside Vineyards offer tours and tastings. These three sites can easily be seen on a day trip from Fredericksburg, but there is a lot more to this area.
A left turn on Va. 202 will take you northeast to the end of the Northern Neck, at Smith Point on the Chesapeake. Here you can explore the town of Reedville, founded as a menhaden fishing port in 1867 by Capt. Elijah Reed, a New England seafarer. Reedville soon became rich, and its captains and plant owners built magnificent Victorian-style homes. One plant still processes the small, toothless fish, which is of little use for human consumption but valuable as meal, oil, and protein supplements used in everything from Pepperidge Farm cookies to Rustoleum paint. You can learn all about the menhaden at the local fishing museum. From Reedville you can depart on cruises to remote Tangier Island out in the bay.
Va. 200 will take you 20 miles south to my favorite spot on the neck, the genteel creekside hamlet of Irvington, home of Christ Church, perhaps the nation’s best example of Colonial church architecture. Irvington and its neighboring villages of White Stone and Kilmarnock constitute one of Virginia’s most affluent retirement communities. Irvington or near there is a good place to use as a base to explore the Northern Neck’s eastern end.
Let’s start with the town shall we:
1. Irvington
If you want to get the most out of your visit to the Northern Neck, Irvington should be at the top of your list. Not only is it home to our award-winning inn and vineyard, but our waterfront community also boasts a wide variety of excellent restaurants and shops. It’s remarkable how many great attractions we have here when you consider that we’re a small town with only about 400 residents!
A stay at the Hope & Glory Inn and Vineyard in Irvington gives you access to several unique experiences you can’t find anywhere else. When you’re not lounging in one of our beautiful rooms or cottages, you’re welcome to take a dip in the salt-water pool, enjoy rave-worthy wine and oyster pairings, go for a cruise on Carter’s Creek, and make reservations at our top-rated, on-site restaurant. Chef Meseret Crockett never disappoints guests at The Dining Hall— she always leaves you coming back for more with her masterful use of fresh, local ingredients!
2. Kilmarnock
You can easily spend your entire getaway in Irvington, but you’re welcome to explore the nearby area as well. Kilmarnock, Virginia, is a beautiful community just minutes away with various boutiques, eateries, and attractions that are worth checking out. History buffs will love exploring the small, yet fascinating, Kilmarnock Museum while those of you with a taste for craft beer can stop by for a freshly brewed pint at the Kilmarnock Brewhaus. Don’t forget to mark your calendars for their annual Christmas parade, too. It’s been a local tradition for over 40 years!
3. Reedville
Another wonderful town awaits just north of Irvington on the eastern tip of the Northern Neck. If you have an aspiration for angling, visiting Reedville is a must. It’s a historic fishing village that dates back to the 19th century and still offers plenty of recreational fishing opportunities today. Cast a line and see if you can reel in some brag-worthy striped bass or bluefish. Afterward, soak up some history at the Reedville Fisherman’s Museum with incredible displays inside and unique boats outside at the dock.
This is only a few places to visit. You have a lot of small towns, attractions and amenities (shopping, antiques, boating, golf, regional food, art, fishing, etc.) in this area. Just do your research. Three small towns I love are White Stone, Urbanna and Warsaw. You just may fall in love with the Northern neck and want to visit here often or buy a home ( vacation, retirement or to just live). Hope to see you soon!
